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Ian ![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 642 |
![]() Posted: 28 Sep 2018 at 7:46pm |
Hi everyone, This thread has been open for quire a while and has got very long and is causing some issues on the back end. I am going to lock this thread and would ask people to continue the discussion on the next thred: The New Automag Part 2. Sorry for any issues this will cause. Ian
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AndyC ![]() Callahan's Auto Mag ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jul 2015 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 447 |
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Travis Morgan ![]() International Auto Mag ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Dec 2012 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 170 |
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Awe, come on Tim, we're just teasing about the sex toy (at least I was anyhow). You have to admit, the device shown in the link provided by AMPNBS does share commonality with the "cycler" aka "FUGGA9NdeCHICEB0LSEN" ![]() I guess not everyone enjoys the same warped sense of humor others like myself might carry? I do wish you guys the best, despite causation created by suppliers and quality control issues which have prevented you from putting the 'final' product into the hands of probably the most loyal group of fans of the AutoMag.... the ones from right here at this forum. ......... and to prove my best wishes I will completely pass over any attempt to connect your comment "Everyone involved is in to deep to give up now." to any sex toy/device memes ![]() |
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BEEMER1 ![]() Callahan's Auto Mag ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: iowa Status: Offline Points: 1282 |
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I agree with David.
I plan on shooting mine and seeing how the new design changes affect the functioning. Maybe it is just me, but the old design was far from perfect. The first one I bought back 20+ years ago at auction functioned fine and still does. I have to say that that is the only one I have ever shot that did not need some kind of work to make it function reliably. I am hoping to shoot mine soon.
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dbailey ![]() 180 Auto Mag ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2015 Location: Arkansas Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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Thanks for the update, Tim.
I, for one, believe in what you guys are doing. Patrick and y’all are being very open and transparent. I have no doubt that when I do get my hands on my FE, it will be perfect. Let the haters hate. David Bailey
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Bellarmament ![]() International Auto Mag ![]() Joined: 17 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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Hi Eric, Hope you are doing well. I have found that the hammer springs are the main initial resistance when manually charging the pistol with the hammer down. This is when the recoil springs only have the preload pressure and the bolt has to move roughly .100 rearward before the tension on the rotation spring increases as the bolt is cammed by the helix rotation in the bolt slot against the bolt rotation pin. I find the pistol is hard to manually charge from the onset due to the hammer springs and then resistance increases as the rotation spring is compressed the 21.5 degrees and the compression resistance of the recoil springs builds as the cocking piece is pulled rearward to the cessation of travel. The bolt rotation spring is only compressed 21.5 degrees on top of a slight preload when charging and is not difficult to move that distance when holding a rotation spring out of the pistol with your fingers ( I may have unusually strong fingers though). I know cocking the hammer before charging negates the resistance of the inner and outer hammer springs but feel it should be easy to manually charge with the hammer down. No matter what you do you cannot get rid of the recoil springs and that is where quite a bit of the resistance to manually charging the pistol arises. I have been working on a design similar to the Para Ordnance LDA. Even though the Auto Mag is a single action pistol a similar design can be utilized. I am sure you know but for those who don't the bolt traveling rearward cocks the pistol and the hammer springs remain tensioned and captured and that energy is only released when the trigger is pulled. Only problem is there is not much room in the frame to make the necessary mods to accommodate this system. I do not want to see any change to the looks of the pistol. That is any more than has already been done with the upper. I have removed the rotation spring from a bolt and measured the difference ( about 6 lb increase) with hammer down and hammer cocked it is still difficult for some to manually retract the bolt with the hammer down even though the bolt is not using a rotation spring and does not cam over into battery. Generally we find that it takes roughly 28 lbs of pull force to manually charge the Auto Mag with the hammer down. Quite a bit to pull with your thumb and forefinger. If you have any suggestions I am all ears. Kind regards Tim
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Bellarmament ![]() International Auto Mag ![]() Joined: 17 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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You are correct Beemer1 on the plating. Thanks Tim
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Bellarmament ![]() International Auto Mag ![]() Joined: 17 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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Thanks for the support Andy, You just about hit the nail on the head. The plating is electroless nickel with boron additive. Super tough and slick. After several platers we found the plater that actually introduced electroless nickel boron to the firearms industry. They do a great job that is consistent in build which is extremely important when tolerances have to be adhered to. Also you won't find little flecks of nickel loose in your pistol when cleaning your gun. Very happy with the platers. Kind regards Tim
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BEEMER1 ![]() Callahan's Auto Mag ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: iowa Status: Offline Points: 1282 |
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Tim will know better but I believe it is the nickel/boron that most of the AR builders have gone to.
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AndyC ![]() Callahan's Auto Mag ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jul 2015 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 447 |
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Well said, Tim, and thanks for the info - if I have to put on a skirt and pom-poms to be a cheerleader for the cause, I damn well will! (might be a nasty sight, but....)
Question on the bolt plating - might this be something like electroless nickel-phosphorus, as used in drilling tools? I know from experience that 11% or thereabouts nickel-phos is a slick, seamless corrosion-resistant layer that works well for moving gun-parts, so I'm curious.
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