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New Wildey Company - Preorders

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Gerry View Drop Down
Callahan's Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 1:29am
Seems to be worth the wait.
Gerry
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roodyrocker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roodyrocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 2:29am
Originally posted by BEEMER1 BEEMER1 wrote:

The original Wildey Company must have offered it at the end also.  I own one and I have only seen one other.  The ribs are interchangeable according to Charlie at USAFA.  I have a 10" with a scope mount on the rib so I ordered an extra rib to have two.  I will see how good they fit as it should get here today with the ammo.


Yes, I know the ribs are interchageable. Just didn't know they offered them in black. Btw, what scope do you use on your Wildeys? I too have an older gun with factory scope mount.

Rudy
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BEEMER1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEEMER1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 12:27pm

To be honest, I have never shot a Wildey with a scope.  I only own one and it is a rare 14" version I bought strictly for the rarity.

The one with the scope mount I bought as it was cheap.  People shy away from the Wildey's with the drilled ribs.

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XP001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XP001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 2:55pm
Very nice! I do see they drilled holes in the rib to get the scope base mounted, it sort of looks ugly seeing the screw go through the rib with them nuts under it but I'm sure it functions nice and is most secure that way. As I look at this, wouldn't it look better and still be secured if the base was moved forward or rearward a little more and the holes(2) then drilled and taped to go into the pilars of the rib to avoid going through it? That would avoid them nuts things from being needed and once you remove the scope mount you can "plug" the screw holes with screws to clean it up. What you think?
You mention the ribs are interchangable, could you just have an extra rib and swap out the ribs when you want to go without a scope and swap back when you want a scope? How would the ribs interchange, secure wise, how are they secured to the barrel/receiver? any pics?
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BEEMER1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEEMER1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 4:16pm

The rib is made of cast aluminum so it would not hold a threaded attachment.

The rib is removed to clean the gas port system which needs to be done every 4 or 500 rounds if you load with Blue Dot, the recommended powder.  If you go to 296 or H110 it would have to be done more often.  The 8" barrels are held on with 3 screws, the 10" and 12" barrels have 4 screws, and the 14" and longer are held on with 5 screws.

I have always wondered how secure the mount was with 2 screws into an aluminum rib, but I have never heard of any problems.

Below is an exploded drawing showing how the rib is held to the barrel with screws.


http://www.usafirearmscorp.com/exploded-view
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XP001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XP001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2017 at 2:08am
After looking at the the drawing it seems that most of the work is already done. The ribs are held in place with screws going through it and into a dovetail threaded stem thingy. All it would take is to line up the scope base mount with them exsisting screws holes and use longer screws that would go through the scope mount base, then the rib and into the threaded stem that is dovetailed into the barrel.
Is that correct? Of course the shorter barrels using only 2 or 3 screws would be an issue but anything with 4 screws would be using the 2 middle screw sets.
Nice to learn more, let me know if this sounds correct please. Maybe the scope base might have to long enough to reach both screw hole sets but that would still would look better in my eyes.
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BEEMER1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEEMER1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2017 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by XP001 XP001 wrote:

After looking at the the drawing it seems that most of the work is already done. The ribs are held in place with screws going through it and into a dovetail threaded stem thingy. All it would take is to line up the scope base mount with them exsisting screws holes and use longer screws that would go through the scope mount base, then the rib and into the threaded stem that is dovetailed into the barrel.
Is that correct? Of course the shorter barrels using only 2 or 3 screws would be an issue but anything with 4 screws would be using the 2 middle screw sets.
Nice to learn more, let me know if this sounds correct please. Maybe the scope base might have to long enough to reach both screw hole sets but that would still would look better in my eyes.


I guess what you are talking about would possibly work, but I personally do not see any advantage and see several disadvantages strength wise.  The scope bases even on a 10" uses three screws to fasten to the rib.  The threaded portion on the bottom of the rib that the scope base screws thread into are not nuts but are round and are fastened to the rib in some way.

In my opinion, it sounds like your main objective is to eliminate the look of the fasteners  and in reality you really do not notice them.  In a profile picture like I posted they show up, but in reality you just don't look at a gun that way.

My reason for replacing the rib is in most circumstances, I would prefer not to have a scope on the gun.
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BEEMER1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEEMER1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2017 at 10:47pm
I finally got out to shoot the new Wildey today.  I was using some factory ammo that I bought from Wildey to eliminate one variable.

I shot one with the gas closed just to see if everything was working and that was fine and the case ejected easily by hand.  I opened the gas valve 8 clicks and shot another.  The slide barely moved so I opened it 2 more to 10 clicks and the slide did not lock open.  I opened the valve one click to 11 clicks and it still did not lock open.  At 12 clicks open the slide started to lock open so I started loading 2 and 3 cartridges at a time.  I kept opening the valve more and finally at 16 clicks open the gun would shoot 5 rounds, eject fine, and stay open on the last round.

I have never had to open the valve that many clicks on any Wildey, especially a 12" 475.  The gun is brand new and maybe it is  a little stiff.

The trigger is horribly mushy.  My accuracy was poor as I had a lot of trouble with the trigger and got to anticipating recoil.  Finally, I just concentrated on trigger control and not the sights and things got better.  I have not shot a Wildey or an Auto Mag for at least a year and they take a little getting used to from my normal 1911 stuff and my Gen 3 PC Smiths that I have been working with.

The last 3 shots I put across my chronograph and the 230 gr 475 bullets clocked at 1689, 1765, and 1755 fps.  That might be a little low leading to a higher gas valve opening.


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desertmoon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertmoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 12:44am
I wish you didn't have such a crappy trigger....it sounds like everything else is alright, though.

At least she runs good!!!!!
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Rumore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rumore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 1:57am
The Wildey I bought in 1989 had the same crappy trigger.  
Did you try the double action?  Was it about 30 pounds?  Get any light primer strikes?

Tony

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