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Getting the AMP to function reliably

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bigbrowndog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbrowndog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2012 at 9:15pm
Well I got the gun to lock back at 30.5gr W296 and 200XTP, velocity was 1750fps.  after the third round at that charge I encountered way more friction to pull the bolt back than normal, so I stopped, until further investigation could take place at a more suitable location than the range.  I figured something broke!!!  When I got the gun apart everything was there, intact, except for the #30 widgets for the trigger bar pin, however it doesn't seem like that should have caused the tremendous amount of friction.  There also does not seem to be any unusual wear or gouging or anything that would cause the friction.
I thought perhaps one of the recoil springs had broken and was dragging inside the frame, but they are intact and I disassembled the gun and ran the cocking piece back and forth without the bolt attached and and rods and springs attached and have little to no friction.
The barrel assm, slides smoothly in the frame.
The bolt is intact, and shows little to no wear as it slides inside the frame ring.
with the bolt attached to the cocking piece, there seems to be a bit more friction as the bolt cams on the retaining/camming pin??? but nothing that comes close to the friction that occurs with the gun completely assembled.
An example of the friction produced is that the bolt can be held open when released slowly!!!  the gun is lubed with FP-10   
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bigbrowndog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbrowndog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2012 at 10:13pm
OK, back again.....
the bolt seems to sit slightly cocked on the cam pin, so that it only makes contact at 2 of its surfaces, top right edge and bottom left edge of the pin and bolt camming cutout,  as opposed to sitting square and making full contact along its bearing surfaces.  However these surfaces do not show galling, wear, or gouging that would stop the bolt from being seated into the barrel.
 
The gun is idle until I can get the necessary pins modded by Maynard arms, but any ideas or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
 
thanks Trapr 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Auto Mag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2012 at 1:31am
Check to see if anything is bent, recoil rods - bolt - frame ring.
 
Either way send it to Brian for an evaluation.
 
Good Luck
 
GH
Who was that masked man,,,
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Andrew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2013 at 7:16pm
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Andrew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2013 at 7:20pm
Bigbrowndog, what was the outcome of the friction issue? Was it a bent back bolt guide ring? Curious to know - one of my AM's slamfired after the sear spring came out of the slot - fired before lockup and made a real mess of the bolt ring.
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AutoMagyar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AutoMagyar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2013 at 2:00am
Originally posted by bigbrowndog bigbrowndog wrote:


On a side note, two of my mags have small cracks, does anyone repair them or are they trash??
Trapr


I have one mag that is a rebuild project that has a small crack also.  It depends on if it actually currently affects the functioning of the mag in your gun, whether you want to bother having it welded up or not. If you're not concerned about the aesthetics of the crack, (as in, you don't mind seeing it), as long as it hasn't spread enough yet to affect it's function, you have another option. To simply stop the crack from spreading any farther, you can use a small, fine drill bit, and put a tiny hole, just slightly larger than than thickness of the crack at the end (or ends?) of the crack. Make sure you drill through and remove the fine sharp end of the crack. The round hole, which you should deburr and smooth after you drill it, will relieve the stress at the sharp end of the crack, and should stop it from propagating any further.  It's a quick, cheap fix, if you can live with the small crack, and it hasn't caused any real problem yet.  I was going to try to get my mag welded up too until a gunsmith in my local club suggested this.  This extra mag of mine is a minor project I've had on the backburner, and now I just need to get a follower and pin to complete the rebuild of it. (I know Wolff sells the springs).  Sometimes I think I should have just bought a new Triple K mag to try out.
Cheers.

"Are you gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie?"
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Travis Morgan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Travis Morgan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2013 at 6:01am
I noticed a similar issue with my gun. When I first got it, it was near impossible to cock and when you did manage to get it to move it was almost a gritty drag feel to it. I looked over the bolt guide pin slot and thought it had too sharp of an edge on the two sides that contacted the pin. I did very carefully stone/lap in these edges and it did improve cocking about 30% (compared to what it was like before as well as other guns). The gun didn't have very many rounds thru it, so I'm assuming it will be a work in progress.

The other day I had it out at the range and the gun cycled just fine, but still a brute to cock. I got it home for cleaning and noticed something that I had overlooked before. On the bottom of the bolt, where the hammer rides, it looked like there were a few scratches that ran the length of stroke - almost a slight galling if you looked up close at it. You may want to check this area on your gun also.

I know on some of the "tuned" guns, the top of the hammers are slightly rounded off and polished - (factory new ones didn't) This particular gun of mine also has a slight hick-up with the safety as well, where I have to manually bring the hammer further back in order to get the safety to engage - it's not much, but it freaks me out to be sticking my thumb behind the cocking piece, messing with the hammer on a loaded chamber Ouch

When I get around to it
#1 - I will round off the top of the hammer and polish
#2 - I will carefully stone the scratch on the bottom of the bolt and buff to finish

I also noticed that this gun has the larger diameter recoil rods. I thought maybe the problem might be in this area, but everything seems to be 100% with springs, rods and bores.

Its gotta be that hammer!
How are you making out?
                               
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bigbrowndog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbrowndog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2013 at 5:01pm
Its been awhile sinc ethe last update, I noticed a clip missing when I disassembled it and so sent the parts to Brian for his cap screw upgrade, got busy with other things and just recently put everything back together. 
I did some polishing on the underside of the bolt,polished the hammer surfaces, and then fired it again low and behold the bolt will now lock back with 29grs of W296, which it didn't earlier so YES, less friction is a good thing. 
The AMP is sighted in and ready for hunting, as an aside. Trying to find a good holster for an outdated gun is tough, however Grassburr leather out of Texas did a great job on a chest rig the holster is from their Huckleberry line, and is very well made and reasonable as far as custom leather goes.  They were local and so being able to take my gun to them was a big help.  If someone can tell me how to post a pic on the forum  I'll get one posted.   
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jurras View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jurras Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2013 at 4:59am
Funny how everything works when all mating parts are polished, Have I mentioned that?
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bigbrowndog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbrowndog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 11:09pm
Lee, I don't ever recall you saying that beforeWink,
 
as an update I have a 150# porker that has succumbed to the AMP.  Looking forward to adding to the list.
 
Trapr 
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