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Failsafed Safety Leavers ?

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Callahan's Auto Mag
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    Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 5:13pm

 

 

All four are sold...........I may make up more in the near future.....Thanx

Failsafed Safety Leavers.

$115.00  (Includes Shipping)

You get:

1)  One Failsafed Safety Leaver Part # 45

2) Two 2-56, Stainless Steel, Button Head Allen screws

3) One Safety Plate Spacer (.012") Part #31

4) One Retaining Ring Part #30

5) One Allen wrench (.05")

I have made up four of these sets to test market on this site.  If there is any interest I may make up some more and offer them on Gun Broker. 

The beauty here is you don't have to do anything to your gun.  Put this kit away for the time you are shooting and the retaining Ring comes off.  This is an upgrade that will not affect the value or originality of your gun as your original safety leaver can always be put back on the gun using the supplied Retaining Ring.   

The .012" safety plate spacer was the most commonly use one during production.  You can use your spacer for this upgrade and save the one I am supplying as a spare.  (This spacer was offered in five sizes and the .012" is right in the middle.)

The #30 Retaining Ring is just a free part.  

FYI, after taping one 2-56 hole, the tap is ruined.

Just the three unmodified parts, #30, #31 & #45, would cost you $141.50 on Gun Broker, plus shipping.

Thank you........Bruce Stark

littlekitty16@roadrunner.com

(818) 988-5478 Machine   

 I can do Pay-Pal

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 76nova Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 5:30pm
nice Bruce count me in on one!!! Brent
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Callahan's Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEEMER1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 6:17pm
I would take one also Bruce.

Email sent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Auto Mag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2016 at 12:29am
This is possibly one of the best modifications you can make to your Auto Mag.

I bought one of these from Bruce years ago after a particular shooter kept loosing the retaining clips, and I have never regretted it. 

GH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dances with AutoMags Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2016 at 2:34pm
Originally posted by Auto Mag Auto Mag wrote:

This is possibly one of the best modifications you can make to your Auto Mag.

I bought one of these from Bruce years ago after a particular shooter kept loosing the retaining clips, and I have never regretted it. 

GH
 
Thanks George,
 
I just had a shop cut the holes in nine leavers.  The shop ruined two and I broke the tap off in two others. Dead  I have since learned not to use Chinese taps more than once on stainless steel.  Angry
 
I hope to make more in the future as I sold four kits here in 4.5 hours. Clap
 
Thanks for this site Ian and we are thinking of you Luc.  As Kent Lomont always said, "Keep you're powder dry."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRX302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 12:31am
Try a "thread forming tap". I used to make a lot of #3, 4, and 5 size threads with them. For a #2 hole I'd recommend drilling and then reaming - it only takes a second - and cobble up a fixture of some sort to keep the tap square to the hole.

The forming taps don't cut; they swage the threads into the workpiece. You'll probably wind up with 40 or 50% thread depth with a tap that small; not an issue.

MSC carries the taps; I'd check out a brand, then call the manufacturer's tech support, tell them what material you're tapping, and get their direct recommendation for the hole diameter and lubricant. The swaging taps are fairly picky about the lubricant; we went through a dozen or so lubes before finding an optimum one for the castings we were working with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dances with AutoMags Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 6:39pm
Originally posted by TRX302 TRX302 wrote:

Try a "thread forming tap". I used to make a lot of #3, 4, and 5 size threads with them. For a #2 hole I'd recommend drilling and then reaming - it only takes a second - and cobble up a fixture of some sort to keep the tap square to the hole.

The forming taps don't cut; they swage the threads into the workpiece. You'll probably wind up with 40 or 50% thread depth with a tap that small; not an issue.

MSC carries the taps; I'd check out a brand, then call the manufacturer's tech support, tell them what material you're tapping, and get their direct recommendation for the hole diameter and lubricant. The swaging taps are fairly picky about the lubricant; we went through a dozen or so lubes before finding an optimum one for the castings we were working with.
 
Thanks for the advice.  The .073 reamer and a forming tap are on order.  Thread Magic seems to be the lubricant of choice from what I have read.  You got me doing a lot of reading on this subject.  I am in the process of making up about ten (10) more and then I'm out of safety leavers.  I had one hold-open failsafed but that one already has a home. 
Shipping costs $6.80 (USPS Priority Mail) but the exact same package to Canada costs $24.95 !  Angry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Auto Mag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 7:01pm
Hummm,,,,  like 30+ years ago I recall a product called Tap Magic that came in a little tin can like 3 in 1 oil and it was THE choice for such work at the time, wonder if Thread Magic is the same company or family of products??? 

I seem to recall the trick was using the right tool, good lube like Tap Magic or various specialty greases, a steady hand, and maybe a jig to keep such things straight as the smaller sizes were more inclined to get screwed up/break when done freehand. 

I seem to recall we had a tapping gadget that you could attach to a mill and then set the torque-limit and it would allow a very constant slow rotation of the tap and maybe even automatically reverse direction???  Anyone know what this gadget is I'm talking about? 

But then I haven't even seen this work done in decades so don't go by anything I say,,,

Good Luck!

gh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRX302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 11:27am
The Tap Magic 30+ years ago was mostly carbon tetrachloride. It worked a treat, but it was pretty nasty stuff, and by the end of a shift we'd be covered in it up to the elbows. All the carbon tetrachloride compounds got yanked off the market and replaced with water-based "mouse milk" fluids that were environmentally safe, nontoxic, recyclable, and probably tasted good, but they weren't worth much for tapping. It took a number of years before new stuff came out that worked almost as good as the toxic stuff.

I still have about two thimblefuls of a 40-year-old can of Tap Magic. That's my "Hail Mary" tap lube when I have a difficult tap job.


Waaay back - before my time, even - rapeseed oil was recommended by most of the machinist books. Back in the '80s I tried to find some, but without the internet there was no way to find any. I did find that canola oil is a close cousin to rapeseed oil, and that they sold it in quart bottles at the grocery store for $1.59.   It was *wonderful*. I used it for drilling, reaming, swaging, even as a cutting oil on the lathe. It left a mirror-bright finish. Taps and drills practically fell through the workpieces. I was thrilled.

Then, a few weeks later, I noticed many of my machines and tools were getting gummy and tacky. Canola is a "drying" oil, and when it dries out it basically turns into glue. And the scum is nearly impervious to: Var-Sol, gasoline, kerosene, naptha, and soap and water. I wound up scrubbing a lot of equipment with steel wool and acetone.

However, I still have that bottle of canola oil 30 years later, and I use some occasionally. It still works great, I just know to clean the machines and tooling before it turns to glue... I never tried it with forming taps, though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jw4570 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2016 at 11:06pm
Bruce,

put me on the list for a next run. Just one. 

As to tapping, I also like to use a taper tap, followed by a plug tap (this is what you normally find at the hardware store), and lastly a bottom tap (the one really easy to break!).  The taper tap might not be useful is the hole is shallow, but they are great for through holes (is that drilled through?).  I still try to start with one whenever I can.  With these tiny taps you have to clear chips often, and stainless can be a booger to tap. 

I only use U.S. made taps whenever possible.  I actually just completely turned a 1/2-13 Chinese tap smooth tapping a hole in medium hard stuff once.   Bought a U.S. tap from the industrial supplier and guess what?, tapped right though, little effort, first time.

I have bought a good number of U.S. made surplus taps/dies/drill bits/mills off ebay.  Just make sure you know what you are buying because there is some odd industrial taps out there that are not good for hand tapping.  A good tap wrench helps too, I know it sounds hokey, but I have a few different ones and depending on what I'm doing, certain ones are best.  I will tell you the harbor freight ones are not them........

Jason
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