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Automag III 30 Carbine: Malfunction: Need Help

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kwesi View Drop Down
International Auto Mag
International Auto Mag


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    Posted: 26 Oct 2018 at 4:54am
Intermittent malfunctions mostly have no primer strike while a few had a light strike.  I purchased this pistol recently which appeared to have very lightly fired.  She ran flawlessly on the first two range visits.  Same results with factory and my reloads. Is this possibly a known issue?
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Luc V. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luc V. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2018 at 7:20am
First I would check the hammerstrut. It might be bent or broken.
Yes it is a known problem.
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kwesi View Drop Down
International Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2018 at 3:56pm
Luc: I won’t be able to check for a few days.  Haven’t been able to find a YT disassembly video or any online source for a hammer strut.  I’m growing  in my mechanical abilities. Do you know if the hammer can come out without any other parts being removed first? I did watch a disassembly of an auto mag II.   Are you aware of any companies that still have hammer stretch for sale? Do you rather auto mag pistols in different calibers utilize the same hammer strength pen? Thanks and Vance for your help
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XP001 View Drop Down
Callahan's Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XP001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2018 at 11:58pm
You should first learn to take it apart, which I didn't think was a hard thing to do. If you want a step by step write up let me know and I can do it for you. Now that you have it apart, look at all the parts and compare it to the part diagram or take some pics of them and post here, maybe somebody will see an issue. Make sure you have a measurement item next to part to give reference to it, ie tape measure or mic.

The bent hammer strut was an issue caused by the owners by allowing the hammer to fall without the slide on the frame. The hammer didn't have a "stop" to hit since the slide was off and proceeded to move forward more than the strut was designed for thus causing it to "bend". Even when bent they would work but depends on how much bend was in it. I have an AutomagII with one and it shoots well, I was too afraid to try to straighten it as it might break with my luck so it still bent and I'm not messing with what works.
Another issue might be your firing pin shorten/broken OR the firing pin shaft/hole is full of crud or gummed up. You can  take your finger and push the firing pin forward (like the hammer striking it would) and see if you feel any dirty resistance or does it move smoothly?

Let us know if any or this helps
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kwesi View Drop Down
International Auto Mag
International Auto Mag


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 12:58am
Thanks XP.  I’ve only removed the slide & barrel for cleaning.  YouTube is my friend.  I have not checked the firing pin.  The guy I purchased it from never fired it.  He purchased it many years ago for his dad.  He never fired it.  I’d bet it had maybe a couple mags thru it period.  I never let the hammer fall with the slide off.  I was wondering if the safety could be engaging. Hmmm now I’m wondering if one’s thumb could push the safety down during recoil.  Sure would be nice to have a YT video.  Do you know if the AMT II is the same dissassembly?  That is on YT.
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kwesi View Drop Down
International Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 2:20am
I removed the slide.  The firing pin moves freely.
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XP001 View Drop Down
Callahan's Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XP001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 6:30am
Ok, I’ll try to walk you through this w/o video. It really isn’t hard at all to break this down to clean and check a few things. There are 2 ways that it can be done, not sure which is better for you or if there is any reason not to do one over the other. Maybe others can chime in which is better for what reasons.

Method #1

First, rack the slide with an EMPTY magazine in it, locking it open, remove the magazine check the chamber to make sure it is empty/unloaded! Now you can manually release the slide, I don’t let it slam shut on an empty chamber, I just ride the slide shut slowly. Next you need to push in the recoil rod plug to become flush with the front of the slide. You need to hold this in and turn the barrel bushing clockwise (when looking at the barrel, good thing you made sure it was unloaded, right!) almost 90 degrees, this allows the recoil rod plug to now be released out of the front of the slide, going under that barrel bushing edge. CAUTION: be careful not to allow the plug shoot out and across the room or into your face! Slowly let up on the plug until you feel no more spring pressure, now remove it from the slide, then remove the spring from the slide through the front end. Next you can slowly open/rack the slide (careful, there is no spring pressure on the slide anymore so it will slide very easy, especially since the hammer is still cocked) until the slide release lever pin/pivot lines up with the notch on the slide, then pop the lever out going left of course. Now I hold the frame butt up allowing you the see the bottom of the slide when removing it, this helps keep the recoil rod and barrel together, carefully making sure not losing the pin/spring inside the back of the recoil rod (if you have one). Then slowly move the slide forward and off the frame. While removing the slide once you can see the recoil rod I normally put my hand around the slide and rod holding it in place till it is removed from frame. Once it’s off, you can slowly move the recoil rod forward off the barrel block that it sits against and then you can remove the pin/spring from the back of that rod. You must remember do NOT pull the trigger letting the hammer slam forward! You grap the hammer with one hand, while holding frame with the other, pull the trigger and then slowly lower the hammer! Next you need to remove the barrel bushing from the slide, you now turn it counter-clockwise back to the start position and then go 45 degrees more, if you look inside the front of the slide you will see a nub on the bushing, it must be exposed in the slide gap, now just pull the bushing forward and off the slide. Now you can pull the recoil rod out from the bottom of the slide and then you remove the barrel by pushing it forward through the slide and out the front end.

Method #2

First, rack the slide with an EMPTY magazine in it, locking it open, remove the magazine check the chamber to make sure it is empty/unloaded! Now you can manually release the slide, I don’t let it slam shut on an empty chamber, I just ride the slide shut slowly but STOP the slide when the slide notch lines up with the slide release lever pin/pivot pin. While holding it there, pop the lever out the left side. Once this is out, continue slowly moving the slide forward until it has no more spring pressure. Now you can keep moving it forward until you remove it from the frame, while doing this you need to wrap your hand around the slide and recoil rod to keep them from shifting and maybe shooting that pin/spring out from the back of the recoil rod. Once the slide and frame are separated, you can carefully lay the slide assy. down and now focus on the frame, while holding the frame in one hand, hold the hammer with the other hand, pull the trigger and slowly lower the hammer down. Now back to the slide assy., you need to push in the recoil rod plug to become flush with the front of the slide. You need to hold this in and turn the barrel bushing clockwise (when looking at the barrel, good thing you made sure it was unloaded, right!) almost 90 degrees, this allows the recoil rod plug to now be released out of the front of the slide, going under that barrel bushing edge. CAUTION: be careful not to allow it shoot out and across the room or into your face! Slowly let up on the plug until you feel no more spring pressure, now remove it from the slide assy., then remove the spring from the slide through the front end. Now you can slowly move the recoil rod forward off the barrel block that it sits against and then you can remove the pin/spring from the back of that rod. Next you need to remove the barrel bushing from the slide, you now turn it counter-clockwise back to the start position and then go 45 degrees more, if you look inside the front of the slide you will see a nub on the bushing, it must be exposed in the slide gap, now just pull the bushing forward and off the slide. Now you can pull the recoil rod out from the bottom of the slide and then you remove the barrel by pushing it forward through the slide and out the front end.

 

Now I did take mine apart and notice that while pushing the firing pin in (side that the hammer hits) FLUSH with the slide the pin does not become exposed at the breech, this is ok as the pin “pops” the primer by strike force. Next, using a punch to check my pin on this next step, I pushed the pin into the slide and it goes into the slide about 7/16 before it stops, the pin is not the same length out as the punch is in but this give you a good look at the firing pin head, it should by roundish. Also this allows you to get a good feel for firing pin spring tension and if the firing pin is gummed up in its’ channel. It should move freely and smoothly under spring pressure, no grit.

 

Hope this helped you. Maybe this would help others now that you already got yours apart. Maybe some can give feedback on which way is better and why it is. Both work ok for me. Hope I didn't miss anything, please advise if I did and I'll correct it, thanks guys (I know you guys will let me know too!)

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kwesi View Drop Down
International Auto Mag
International Auto Mag


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 3:04pm
Thank you XP for taking the time to detail the takedown.  That was as far as Ive gone in the past.  I checked the firing pin, as you suggested, and it appears fine.  How about removing the hammer strut?  Anyone have details?
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XP001 View Drop Down
Callahan's Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XP001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 6:33pm
Did you get a manual with it? I'll see what's involved with the strut, really isn't that hard to work on these. The hardest part is dropping things and crawling around to find it. I learned to start with nice big clean area and work way over the table so when things fly/roll a little it still stays on table.
Still waiting to see pics of your work here, hint hint.
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kwesi View Drop Down
International Auto Mag
International Auto Mag


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Location: Texas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 6:46pm
No manual but I printed one online. No instructions on removing the trigger, etc.  All my family are in town so until I can remove the hammer strut pics are of little value. Slide is off with barrel on the bench for now.
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