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AMT Hardballer long slide questions

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Bmi48219 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 6:43pm
Hoping a knowledgeable member can help me with a few questions:
1) is the Hardballer extractor the same dimensions as a standard 1911 government model?
2) does anyone know what weight recoil spring was installed at factory in the Longslide hardballer?
I am running target reloads (4.3 gr. Titegroup under a 230 RNCP), thinking I could go with a lighter
recoil spring but don't know where I'm at with original spring.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rumore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 7:21pm
The extractor is a standard 1911 unit.  I ended up swapping mine out shortly after I got the gun....that was back in the mid 80's.  I also changed out the ejector which if I recall correctly, was welded in place.  I actually changed both parts numerous times.

I don't know for sure, but I believe the spring was a standard 16 pound unit.

FWIW, I never got mine to run 100%.  It was plagued with sporadic ejection problems.

It also burst the barrel where the lug attached to the barrel.  That took AMT 5 months to replace.

Tony

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bmi48219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 10:39pm
Rumore,
Do you mean welded as in permanently joined to frame or welded as in stuck real good?
I've had mine for a couple years now, probably upwards of 5000 rounds through it. Up until the ejector issue it has been running fine. Shoots really well, way better than me.
Thanks again
Vic
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Callahan's Auto Mag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rumore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 11:17pm
On a regular 1911, there is a cross pin holding the front leg of the ejector into the frame.  It runs between the frame rails.  My gun had no pin or pin hole, but instead had the ejector was tig welded in place.  The weld was in the middle where the cut-out would normally be giving you clearance to pry it out.  I had to cut the weld to get the ejector to lift out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRX302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 5:47pm
Now that's a new one to me! And here I thought the manufacturers that used super glue instead of a cross pin were weird...

As an aside to anyone who has pined for a 7" longslide and couldn't find one, Fusion is making 7" slides now. I always thought the 7" slides looked borderline ridiculous, but my 6" longslide is so nice, I've been looking at a 7" and thinking, "Hmm..."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 10:51pm
Is it the whole gun or just a slide and barrels?
Leadmelter
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Bmi48219 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bmi48219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 4:14am
Tony, I looked at my ejector, it's welded too. I can see the pry slot (barely) under it but welds on either end of slot. Now I'm a little concerned because the top front corner of ejector isn't there. Instead of being square it looks a triangle 1/16" x 1/16") was cut off. No peening or porosity in the exposed edge, just a clean finished surface. I looked at a schematic on line and it looks similar to mine, not a square corner. Is yours the same shape? I ordered a new extractor & oversize FPS. My stop fits really loose in the stop channel, allowing the extractor to rotate some. This probably explains why I continued to have sporadic FTE's after re-tensioning the extractor. Fired brass remained in chamber while bolt face tried to feed another round of magazine, jamming pistol. Fired brass dropped out of chamber after I lock slide back & dropped mag. Happened with three different mags, not all the time but enough. Guess I'll fit the new extractor & stop and see what happens.
Thanks for the info,
Vic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRX302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 11:25pm
Sounds like you have a good plan of attack. Don't forget to do a "plunk" test - drop a loaded round in the barrel and it should stop somewhere between .005" below to .015" above the barrel hood. Different manufacturers and gunsmiths have had different opinions over the years.

AMT had a consistent problem with chambers not being reamed properly, probably from trying to get the last bit out of worn-out reamers, so a lot of chambers wound up tapered, or rounded-off instead of squared at the case mouth step.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tgt40 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2017 at 1:29pm
Does it look like this?  It might be okay for a nose profile and okay as is...Good luck with solving the extraction problem let us know how it's going


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bmi48219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 3:27pm
My ejector looks like this
Leading edge is clean & doesnt look like it's been snapped off, no peen marks or porosity on the edge.
I can't recall it ever looking different in the past. Sure looks like it was made that way. Does anyone have a Hardballer long slide they can check to see if theirs looks the same? I guess I'll try fitting the new extractor & FPS first & go from there.


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