357 AMP handloading |
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BEEMER1
Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: iowa Status: Offline Points: 1307 |
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As far as 19 grains being as low as one should I guess that all depends on the gun. I was told to start there and work up until I found a load that would lock the bolt back and met my accuracy expectations. Both 19 and 20 did that in my gun so I stayed at 19.
The springs in my gun probably need changed and after putting in Wolff +10% springs I am sure I would need to go up. good luck.
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Luc V.
Admin Group Joined: 09 Mar 2008 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 1338 |
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Luv2shoot, The numbers
on the supervel file are CUP (copper units pressure) to make it even more
difficult there is also LUP (Lead units pressure). Those two terms were used
back in the days, depending on the type of crushers used. One remark
about the conversion formule you found, I would not trust this much because
there are to much different copper crushers used. With each new batch of
proofed crushers you had to be recalculate the whole formule to get the correct
pressure. Back then you could not just read the pressure from a clock on the
test pressuregun. It had to be calculated from the measurements of the crushed
piece of copper. As far as
your 19 grains of H110 it might work well. The reason the slow powders work OK
on much lighter loads as usual is because you used it in a bottle necked case
instead of a straightwall case. I'm pretty sure a to light load would not work well in a straightwall case. I have a
similar result with my 357 Sig caliber. Because you
have to push all that volume of burning powder throug a smaller diameter the
pressure will rise (due to the shoulder in the shell) before the bullet leave
the shell, not the barrel. Difficult to explain in words, but try this to
understand: take a waterhose and sqeeze it off to a smaller diameter you will
see that it will spray water much further because of the rised pressure. If you
sqeeze it even more tighter you might burst the hose (if enough water pressure
to start with.) I hope this makes you understand somehow the way pressure
works... To get back
to your 19 grains load, to make it work well and consistent, make sure you have
a verry good grip of the bullet in the case. The use of a factory crimp die (I
use Lee Presicion) is recomended. If the bullet has to little grip in the case
the primer can have enough force to push the bullet foreward before a good
ignition of the powder. Then you should find much unburned powder in the
barrel. If it burn well and have a clean barrel, you a probably good to
go. About a
case not completely filled with slow burning powder, it fails because there is
to much room (airspace) inside the case and primer has enough force to blow the
powder foreward and the flame is to cold to short for good ignition. I doubt it
it could happen in a 357AMP case with 19 grains H110. Thats why I said to use
magnum primers. In all my
reloading experiments I had that happen once with a very light load in 45-70
Gvt cartridge. I worked well when I switched to magnum primers. It all
sound difficult, but its just logic....
I would suggest to load 20 or 30 rounds and try them but also look good for accuracy, if they are consistent and good groups, it will work fine. If you have fliers all over the target the pressure (ignition) is not reliable you should adjust the load.
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paul v.
International Auto Mag Joined: 10 Mar 2008 Location: western ny Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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This may help.
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John Nada
International Auto Mag Joined: 23 Sep 2014 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Is there any data for Vihta N110 powder for 357AMP. For 44AMP I was told 19.5 grains was working well in someone else gun. (that all the data I found for this powder).
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